Par Purple Haze & The Girl; Photographe Vogue Runway
Courtney Love and Kat Bjelland's kinderwhore looks permeated Hedi's collection for Saint Laurent.
While the 1970s will be remembered for hyperbolising the flamboyant and effeminate aspects of the hippie culture, the early 1990s will always be about a decadence of an entirely different kind. Heroin chic - an aesthetic that evolved from grunge to the waif - has had fashion under the influence for the past decades. And when a designer taps into the vein of this distinct and intimidating iconography, the collection is ought to be pregnant with promise.
Down the elevated catwalk Slimane sent a myriad of used-up and worn-out models clad in random mash-ups of sparkly polka dot dresses, fishnets and slashed black leather cuissardes. The leggy girls could have walked right off my walls, as they were once covered with posters of Courtney Love and Kat Bjelland in all their glorious whore-like disarray. For one bottlenecked moment, Hedi threw a technicolour fur coat on icy-blonde and nihilistic model Lili Sumner.
While fashion's lemmings are still trawling through the annals of 70s Almost Famous, Hedi Slimane is once again in a league of his own. He hasn't glommed onto heroin chic because of the actual drug association but because of the glamour and the free sexuality. What you are calling a heroin chic look is what we call a real look. This is what makes fashion more accessible. And with Saint Laurent doubling its business since hiring Hedi, it could only mean one thing: accessibility sells, sells, sells. █
photos via vogue runway