Par The Girl; Photographe Vogue Runway
Maria Grazia Chiuri's flair for pretty tulle bustier frocks and astrology-embroideries hasn't wilted. It all came out to a pulsing, along with World War II references: slouchy denim, soft washed-out workwear and a boiler-suit. Yes, 1970s first-wave feminist uniforms came thick and fast.
The fall collection was awash in a euphoric blue, which implied the designer's affections with the blue paintings of Picasso and Chagall and jazz blues. Midnight blue velvet minidresses, navy belted-skirt suits with hooded tops and fuzzy sweaters and sequins, assembled off-the-rack simulacra of cool. Adding to that, the models were wearing black leather berets by Stephen Jones.
Whether Chiuri is referencing factory-worker utility wear or spiritual meanings of the universe, the power of her clothes is that she voices her own beliefs in a way that represents not one type of a woman – but all kinds of women out there. █