VACCARELLO'S SAINT LAURENT

Par Purple Haze & The Girl; Photographe Vogue Runway

Post-Slimane Apocalyptic era. 

 
 
 

No we weren't in the brace of the gilded grandeur of Carreau du Temple. Saint Laurent staged its show in a derelict industrial military office with rusting girders. Suspended from a crane, was a giant illuminated YSL logo, which indicated that the maison is under construction. It is almost as if we were in the aftermath; in this post-Slimane Apocalyptic era and emotions were high. Rock 'n' roll, slim silhouettes and leggy festival kids were all beaten into oblivion by Saint Laurent's newly appointed director Anthony Vaccarello.

 
 

Tonight the Belgian designer touted diversity on the runway in terms of race and nationality. He gets props for that. But while Hedi injected Saint Laurent with a youthful spirit, Vaccarello communicated a matchless degree of grown-up brazen loucheness. There is power in the 80s and chichi fashion extremes but he could have shaved an inch or two off those shoulders. The pegged jeans, the gold lamé, the oversized crystal earrings and the pouf-sleeved dresses were kind of ridiculous in the abstract. Oh and there were bejewelled pasties. Yes pasties – those strategically placed small disks that went along with the mono-boob dress. 

 
 

And what was perhaps the message? The collection as a whole asserted that the female body, in all of its majesty, was the erogenous zone du jour. The plunged necklines, the sheer tops (worn sans bras of course!) and the micro-mini lengths sharpened Vaccarello's whole you can see 'em but you can't touch 'em erotic vision. He blatantly favoured the indefatigable concept of hyperbole: the higher the heel, the higher the hemline. With their impropable long legs, the cast of seductresses – including Freja Beha Erichsen and Anja Rubik – stamped their YSL-shaped heel on the mirrored runway. "It's all in the attitude", Vaccarello said. 

 
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It wasn't quite the tour de force but he did champion quotidian taste, which ultimately has the potential to sell in this post-Slimane depression. But I must say – girls with tits, you might have a problem.