UN, DEUX, TROIS! SAINT LAURENT!

Par Purple Haze & The Girl; Photographe Vogue Runway

Back to Studio 54. 

 
 
 

Some criticise Hedi Slimane's collections for being an ode to copied vintage pieces that can be found in thrift stores in LA. While others, wonder whether Slimane's priority is to design for his house's historic customer. For us however, who are in Slimane's camp, it is almost ridiculous to disregard his effort to enmesh the sophistication of the late Yves into the new Saint Laurent brand. 

 
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Rock 'n' roll is a lifestyle and a way of thinking - it is something that says, here I am and fuck you if you can't understand me. To Slimane rock 'n' roll is an aesthetic as much as it is an attitude. By being notoriously nepotistic when it comes to seating arrangements - that is, front row seats are occupied by aspiring guitarists instead of experienced journalists - he sticks a middle finger up the industry's ass. And there’s no doubt that his music and photography have defined his vision for Saint Laurent. 

 
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For this season's Saint Laurent show, the Carreau du Temple was transformed into studio 54 and the entire collection was a paean to 70s glam. The set's neon flashing lights complimented perfectly the marabou feathers, skinny scarves, sequins and platforms. One member of Slimane's entourage was a walking tribute to Yves Saint Laurent's 1982 nautical collection that showcased sailor jackets, striped tops and sheer stockings. 

 
 

Slimane is tapped into a very specific idea of cool not everyone understands. And perhaps it’s because in 2014, the notion of adopting an iconoclastic behavior and subsequently breaking free from the status quo may be regarded as discomforting. Fashion is art, but he who makes controversial art, is iconic. Long Live Hedi Slimane. 

 

PSYCH ROCK'S NEW RISING

Par Purple Haze & The Girl; Photographe Vogue Runway

 

When a designer masterfully flips my nostalgia for the psych rock aesthetic that characterised the 60s into hypnotising designs, I am enthralled. The vision of Hendrix thrashing at his guitar was the image of my adolescence and with this season's Saint Laurent menswear collection, Hedi Slimane delivered in a seductive homage to the late legend. 

 
 

Psych Rock's New Rising was the name of the collection that featured a plethora of ponchos, embroidered jeans, snakeskin boots and amulets. Slimane also tapped into 1969 Woodstock hippie era by showcasing florals and ethnic pendants hang on naked torsos. One of Slimane's statuesque character was reminiscent of Jimi Hendrix, with the model sporting an afro hairstyle and a leather waistcoat. Los Angeles 60s revivalist band Mystic Braves composed and performed Bright Blue Day Haze that complimented both visually and aurally the show.

 
 

Despite Slimane's collections for Saint Laurent being often divisive and controversial, this season there's something in the air - and it smells like Purple Haze. 

 

ERDEM SS 2015

Welcome to the Jungle, he's got fun and games. He's got everything you want, oh you know the name...


I am talking of course about Canadian-born designer Erdem. Fashion's cognoscenti gathered at the Old Selfridge's Hotel to see the designer's botany-inspired Spring Summer 2015 collection. Leaves and blooms, all magically spawning on to demure sheer dresses. A flourish of feathers wows all around. Greens, yellows, whites and blues accentuate the verdant vibes and are subsequently juxtaposed with the dark grounds. Gladiators and boyish flats stormed down the catwalk, toughening up the jungle's goddesses. Picking up the pieces from last year's insubstantial collection (accurately described by Mr.Blanks) Erdem has finally found the right balance between romance and darkness. 

images via: style.com and wallpaper.com