Par Purple Haze & The Girl; Photographe Vogue Runway
Back to Studio 54.
Some criticise Hedi Slimane's collections for being an ode to copied vintage pieces that can be found in thrift stores in LA. While others, wonder whether Slimane's priority is to design for his house's historic customer. For us however, who are in Slimane's camp, it is almost ridiculous to disregard his effort to enmesh the sophistication of the late Yves into the new Saint Laurent brand.
Rock 'n' roll is a lifestyle and a way of thinking - it is something that says, here I am and fuck you if you can't understand me. To Slimane rock 'n' roll is an aesthetic as much as it is an attitude. By being notoriously nepotistic when it comes to seating arrangements - that is, front row seats are occupied by aspiring guitarists instead of experienced journalists - he sticks a middle finger up the industry's ass. And there’s no doubt that his music and photography have defined his vision for Saint Laurent.
For this season's Saint Laurent show, the Carreau du Temple was transformed into studio 54 and the entire collection was a paean to 70s glam. The set's neon flashing lights complimented perfectly the marabou feathers, skinny scarves, sequins and platforms. One member of Slimane's entourage was a walking tribute to Yves Saint Laurent's 1982 nautical collection that showcased sailor jackets, striped tops and sheer stockings.
Slimane is tapped into a very specific idea of cool not everyone understands. And perhaps it’s because in 2014, the notion of adopting an iconoclastic behavior and subsequently breaking free from the status quo may be regarded as discomforting. Fashion is art, but he who makes controversial art, is iconic. Long Live Hedi Slimane. █